History of Japanese in Grindelwald
Mountaineers, the prince, first ascents and deep connections
Since the early days of mountaineering, Japanese climbers have stayed in Grindelwald and climbed many peaks. Some even achieved first ascents or established the most direct routes to the summit
These stories have found a home at the Grindellodge.
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Japan’s discovery of the Alps
Japan’s connection with the Alps began as early as 1582, but true mountaineering involvement emerged during the Taishō era (1912–1926).
During Emperor Taishō’s reign, Japan experienced economic growth and social change, which fueled interest in mountaineering. Academic institutions pioneered this trend, with Kyoto’s Third High School founding a mountaineering club in 1913. By 1915, universities like Kyoto Imperial University and Keio University had alpine clubs, inspiring significant climbs such as Maki “Yūkō” Aritsune’s ascents in the Swiss Alps and Canadian Rockies.
Pioneers like Kaga Shōtarō summited Switzerland’s Jungfrau in 1910, albeit initially as a tourist. Tsujimura Isuke later completed Japan’s first winter ascents of Swiss peaks in 1914, publishing a Swiss Diary that inspired climbers like Matsukata Saburō.
Maki “Yūkō” Aritsune brought Japan global recognition with the first Japanese ascent of the Matterhorn and a groundbreaking climb of the Eiger’s Mittellegi Ridge in 1921. Diplomat Hidaka Shinrokurō and climbers like Matsukata and Uramatsu Samitarō contributed to Japan’s rising reputation in the Alps.
By the 1920s, Japanese climbers rivaled European guides, with notable ascents like Kagami Yoshiyuki’s “Kagami Route” on Mont Maudit. This period laid the foundation for Japanese alpinism and inspired future Himalayan expeditions.
Winter mountaineering gained traction after Austrian Major Theodor von Lerch introduced modern skiing techniques in 1911. This led to more dynamic styles combining skiing, rock and ice climbing, exemplified by Itakura Katsunobu’s achievements.
Infrastructure improved with mountain maps, guidebooks, local guiding associations, and new mountain huts and trails. Notable efforts included Prince Higashikuni’s climb of Yari-ga-take in 1916, symbolizing the sport’s cultural acceptance.
Sources:
Tozan-shi (2): Taishō alpinism
Tozan-shi (5) – Japan discovers the Alps
Yuko Maki and Mittellegi
10 September 1921: First ascent of the Mittellegi ridge
On 10 September 1921, Samuel Brawand, Yuko Maki, and the mountain guides Fritz Amatter and Fritz Steuri made the first ascent of the Mittellegi Ridge on the Eiger. This route had previously been attempted several times in vain as an ascent. Maki once again demonstrated his mountaineering skills, while Fritz Amatter and Fritz Steuri mastered the technical challenges of the ridge, and Brawand guided Maki safely. To master the Grosser Aufschung bellow the peak they brought a special pole, a spike to push themselfves up, and a hook to reach for the rope.
After their successful ascent, they returned triumphantly to Grindelwald on 11 September, where Maki was celebrated by locals and Englishmen alike. However, this public honour was uncomfortable for the modest Maki, which made his personality all the more likeable. One particular moment of the climb that Maki immortalised in Brawand’s guidebook was Brawand’s courageous rescue of a lost climbing pole that would have jeopardised the success of the climb.
After the ascent, Maki generously donated 10,000 francs for the construction of the Mittellegi hut, which was inaugurated in 1924. His picture above the hut’s dining table has greeted numerous mountaineers ever since.
Maki spent almost two years in Grindelwald and was held in high esteem by the locals. His later disappearance from everyday life left a noticeable gap, especially as Japanese guests were a rarity at the time.
The Bhend ice axe and mountaineering equipment
Around 1870, Karl Bhend started out in Grindelwald as a blacksmith for hooves and wagons and also produced ice axes due to the rise of alpinism. In addition to Bhend, three other blacksmiths produced ice axes in the Schwarze Lütschine valley around 1900.
In the 1930s, Alfred Bhend developed a lightweight crampon, but ceased production in the 1970s in favour of industrial manufacturing. During the Second World War, Alfred forged glacier picks for the Swiss army. His ice axes became world famous when they equipped the British Himalayan expedition of Hillary and Tensing in 1953 and the Swiss expedition in 1956 (with Dölf Reist, among others), marking the beginning of the ‘great era’ of the Bhend ice axe. Bhend picks dominated the work of blacksmiths until the 1970s.
With the improvement of crampons, ‘hack picks’ became less important, as ‘anchor picks’ were favoured and wooden shafts no longer met new safety standards. For this reason they were increasingly replaced by more durable materials. Today, Bhend picks are considered collector’s items, valued for their aesthetics and maneuverability. For Ruedi Bhend, the fourth generation, making picks is once again a sideline – just like in his great-grandfather’s day.
Source: Geschichte des Eispickels
The Prince
August 1926 – With Crown Prince Chichibu in the Bernese and Valais Alps
In August 1926, Crown Prince Chichibu came to Grindelwald, where Yuko Maki organised the expedition to the Bernese and Valais Alps down to the last detail. Five experienced mountain guides – Fritz Amatter, Heinrich Fuhrer, Fritz Steuri, Emil Steuri, and Samuel Brawand – accompanied the imperial group. The protocol demanded that the crown prince never climbed alone with two guides; he was therefore led in a five-man rope team, supplemented by Yuko Maki and another Japanese climber.
The expedition began with two training tours on the Wengernalp and the Faulhorn. This was followed by a challenging journey through the Bernese Alps, which was completed without any accidents. In Valais, Fritz Amatter had to join the military service and was replaced by Josef Knubel.
Yuko Maki acted as liaison and made sure that the crown prince felt comfortable. At his request, he was addressed simply as ‘Mr Prince’. The tours concluded in September with an ascent of the Mönch via the Nollen and a final tour from the Jungfraujoch via the Finsteraarhorn to the Grimsel.
After the expedition, Yuko Maki returned to Japan, yet connections endured for decades through heartfelt letters and visits from fellow mountaineers.
Japanese direttissima
In 1969, a Japanese climbing team achieved a historic feat by completing a new direct route on the Eiger’s formidable north face, known as the “Japanese Direttissima.” This challenging climb, completed on August 15, 1969, required an entire month, substantial amount of gear, and a well-thought-out approach in “expedition style”. The team used over 8,000 feet of rope, hundreds of bolts, and pitons and carried enough supplies to sustain them as they systematically advanced the route step by step.
Led by Takio Kato, the group relied on mutual trust to tackle the notorious climb, which combined technical rock climbing with alpine skills less familiar to Japanese climbers of the time. Michiko Imai, the only woman on the team, made history as the first woman to climb the Eiger via a direct route. Their achievement is celebrated in a special exhibition in Grindelwald, showcasing their pioneering spirit and the enduring legacy of their climb.
Source: How Japanese climbers pioneered the Eiger’s most direct route
Matsumoto – Grindelwald: A Sister City Partnership Since 1972
The sister city relationship between Grindelwald in the Swiss Alps and Azumi Mura (now part of Matsumoto) in the Japanese Alps began in 1972, initiated by Roland Rudin, a Swiss Olympic judge, and Mayor Kiyoki Fukushima of Azumi Mura. This partnership was created to foster peace, international friendship, and cultural exchange.
Both regions share a strong connection to alpine culture, with mountaineering, hiking, and skiing as central activities. While Grindelwald relies primarily on tourism, Azumi Mura also benefits from its hot springs and hydropower. Their shared alpine landscapes and economic parallels laid the foundation for a deep bond.
Key milestones of the partnership include regular visits by delegations, school exchanges, and cultural events. In 1988, the Grindelwald Ski Club twinned with the Norikura Ski Club, further strengthening the connection. A ski instructor exchange program followed in 1998–1999.
After Azumi Mura merged with Matsumoto in 2005, the partnership was reaffirmed and expanded. Delegations from both cities have maintained active exchanges, such as the 2011 visit led by Matsumoto City President Akira Sugenoya. During this visit, the Matsumoto Club was established in Grindelwald to nurture the long-standing relationship.
Source: Matsumoto ― Grindelwald (1972)
Deep connections
Memories of Yuko Maki (1894-1989)
During his stay in Grindelwald in 1919/20, Yuko Maki – who would later become the first person to climb the Mittellegigrat on the Eiger in 1921 – learned German from Samuel Brawand, a teacher and politician. Although Brawand was sceptical at first, a close friendship developed between the two. Maki was a diligent student who learnt German quickly and expressed himself humorously about their cultural differences.
In addition to German, Maki also learnt to ski with Fritz Steuri. The two harmonised well mentally, and Maki showed enthusiasm for the German language and culture. Their connection marked the beginning of a long-standing friendship, which was deepened over the years in shared alpine adventures.
1920: First mountain tours with Yuko Maki
In the summer of 1920, began Yuko Maki his first alpine experiences in the Swiss Alps under the guidance of Samuel Brawand and other Grindelwald mountain guides. With high-quality equipment for the time, consisting of handmade mountain boots, ice axes, and a guide’s rucksack, Maki ventured out on challenging tours.
On 19 July, Maki and Brawand climbed the Jungfrau in rough weather. Maki showed his enthusiasm for the mountains, which he described with the expression: ‘It’s like theatre!’. He expressed his admiration for Brawand as a guide and for the majestic Alps in a poetic passage within his guidebook.
Later that summer, Maki’s older brother Tomo-o joined him, and together they undertook tours on the Finsteraarhorn and the Grosses Schreckhorn. The cooperation of the mountain guides, including Emil and Fritz Steuri, made it possible to organise the tours safely and well-planned. Emil, the more experienced and impulsive guide, harmonised perfectly with Brawand, who took on the more thoughtful role.
In 1921, Maki continued his adventures, including a summer ski tour on the Faulhorn and a trip to Zermatt. There, he undertook tours of Monte Rosa and the Matterhorn, often in uncomfortable conditions that highlighted his generosity and camaraderie. The return journey to Grindelwald was via the Aletschhorn, a tour characterised by crowded huts and minor inconveniences such as fleas. Nevertheless, the enthusiasm for the mountains remained unbroken and deepened the friendship between Maki and his guides.
1926 – Yuko Maki’s second stay in Zermatt and Grindelwald
In July 1926, Yuko Maki returned to Grindelwald to prepare for the Japanese crown prince’s trip. Together with his friend Saburo Matsukata, he travelled to Zermatt, accompanied by the mountain guides Emil Steuri and Fritz Amatter.
Maki, a pipe-smoking enthusiast, persuaded Amatter, who had given up smoking, to start again. In Maki’s rope team, there was a communal system of tobacco sharing: everyone shared tobacco from his tin, which Amatter regularly refilled. In addition to tobacco, Amatter was also responsible for provisions, tickets, and organisational tasks – a vote of confidence he consistently upheld.
The group first climbed the Rothorn and Obergabelhorn, where they performed outstandingly well. For the ascent of the Matterhorn via the Zmuttgrat ridge, they used a mule to transport their luggage – an exceptional convenience from which Amatter profited only once.
On the way back to Grindelwald, they crossed the Bietschhorn via the Ostsporn, descending via the picturesque Westgrat. The tours provided unforgettable experiences, showcasing both the skills and camaraderie of the group.
Japanese alpinists in the footsteps of Yuko Maki
A close connection between Japanese alpinists and the Alps began as early as 1923 when Mr Bekku and later Mr Matsukata travelled to Grindelwald. In the decades that followed, numerous Japanese mountaineers, including Uramatsu, Kokubu, Yamasaki, and the brothers Ichiro and Jiro Taguchi, came to follow in Yuko Maki’s footsteps and experience the Alps. The collaboration with Japanese alpinists reached a high point in 1927 and 1928 with tours such as the first ascent of the Wetterhorn West Ridge and the first crossing of the Eiger-Hörnli.
1957: Swissair’s first flight to Japan
After the end of his career as a mountain guide, Samuel Brawand turned to politics. As a representative of the Canton of Berne, he took part in Swissair’s first flight to Japan in 1957. Yuko Maki organised a warm reception in Tokyo, which was attended by numerous Japanese mountaineers, including Matsukata and Bekku. Princess Chichibu also took part in the celebrations.
As a guest of Yuko Maki in Japan
During his stay, Yuko Maki accompanied Samuel Brawand on a journey through Japan that left unforgettable impressions: visits to temples in Nara, observations of female divers on Pearl Island and encounters with the first climbers of Manaslu, an expedition that Maki led in 1955. These experiences strengthened the friendship between the two and emphasised the cultural and mountaineering connections.
The trip ended with heartfelt farewells at Tokyo airport. Shortly afterwards, Brawand, Maki and Matsukata met again in London for the 100th anniversary of the Alpine Club and shorty after in Bern and Grindelwald, where they reminisced about their shared memories.
1988: Honorary member of the Japanese Alpine Club – Farewell to Yuko Maki
After decades of friendship and collaboration with Yuko Maki and other Japanese alpinists, Samuel Brawand was made an honorary member of the Japanese Alpine Club in December 1988. The contact with Mr Maki and his Japanese friends continued over the years. In 1989, Brawand’s granddaughter brought greetings from Yuko Maki, whom she had visited at his home.
In May 1989, Brawand received the news of Yuko Maki’s death. This made him the last survivor of the four alpinists who had climbed the Eiger together in 1921. Brawand expressed his deep gratitude for the encounter with Yuko Maki, which had had a lasting impact on his life.
Grindelwald, July 1989 – Samuel Brawand
